Now available! The brand new John Crews Series Little John DD Deep Diver!
The John Crews Series Little John DD Deep Diver-Get ‘er Down! The all-new Little John DD Deep Diving Crank Bait designed by SPRO and John Crews is sure to be the talk of deep diving crank bait enthusiasts everywhere! Runs Deeper, casts farther and fishes easier thank any other deep diver. It’s sure to be the envy of any crank bait angler. Several unique features make it a winner. Dives to a true 20 feet! A unique Tungsten weight transfer system and an aerodynamic streamline design make this deep diver simple to cast and retrieve. You will be able to crank the deep zone all day long without out being worn out! Special Custom Colors are hand picked by Bass Elite Series Angler John Crews and, as with all SPRO lures, comes standard with those sticky sharp Gamakatsu Hooks! Use the Little John DD to entice those deep down predator fish! “I designed the DR John to be the best deep diving crank bait ever created!" John Crews
Size 70mm, 1 ounce, Dives up to 20 feet on 10-pound test
Length: 70mm Weight: 1 ounce Depth: Dives up to 20 feet come with super sharp Gamakatsu Treble RB #2
Advanced
Deep Cranking
By
John Crews
We all want to win. How do you win? You
fish baits that win tournaments. There is no better bait to win a summertime
bass tournament on most impoundments than a deep diving crankbait. These large
hard plastic baits with treble hooks use resistance against a large bill to
dive to depths of 10 to over 20 feet. Look at the history of professional bass
tournaments over the past 20 years. The fact is that they win a lot of
tournaments.
Many professional bass anglers have made a
career with a deep diving crankbait. David Fritts, Paul Elias, and Mark Davis
have won endless tournaments including bass fishing’s biggest events with the
“big plug.” They all know that catching bigger fish is the key to winning. They
all also know that during the summer patterns, one lure does such a feat.
Deep diving crankbaits require a different
mentality, different equipment, and a precise approach to angling. You can’t
just tie one on your worm rod and throw it around. Almost every fish caught on
these baits is not an accident. The angler must know the depth range they are
fishing and how the structure they are fishing is laid out. If not, they get
their lure hung up over and over without getting bit.
The reel is the first must is deep cranking.
A baitcasting reel is required. The spool and function of that reel enables
anglers to cast these large lures long distances and retain some accuracy. A
5:1 gear ratio in the reel is very nice but a 6:1 ratio can suffice. Some
manufacturers are even making reels specifically designed for this technique.
Whatever reel you choose, make sure it is lightly oiled and working properly.
Throwing long distances and cranking with that resistance will wear out reels
not is proper working order.
The rod is just as important. The rod must
be at least 7’ long and some of the better ones are up to 7’11”! They also must
have a parabolic action. That means the rod bends throughout the length of the
rod, not just at the tip like worm rods. Fiberglass rods naturally do this but
some graphite models are being designed to emulate this action. A rod with a
longer handle is also a plus since it helps you heave the “big plug” a long
distance. Like the reels, many rods specifically designed for deep cranking are
available.
There is a big debate over which line to
use when deep cranking. Without a doubt, fluorocarbon is the way to go. The
early attempts at fluorocarbon line did not stretch enough and caused problems
when casting such a heavy lure long distances. Vicious Fluorocarbon is what I
use. More recent fluorocarbon lines such as Vicious don’t have this problem and
give you MUCH better feel than mono. Mono is too soft and stretches too much
for my liking. Fluorocarbon will give you better feel when your bait has all
the resistance of the water from such long casts and deep depths.
Now that you have the right equipment, you
need to know where you are throwing it. You will need to know where you are
throwing it since you will fish it 10 to 20 feet deep and not throw it at visible
cover. Reading the terrain is important. Reading your depth finder is
important. Visualizing the bottom is important. Using marker buoys and
reference points are important. Knowing what type of bottom composition you are
hitting is important. As you can see, there are a lot of things to be conscious
of when deep cranking.
All these variables need to be known so you
can be efficient, put the lure in the strike zone, and catch those winning
fish. Once you become proficient at this technique, everything will become
second nature. It is best to begin deep cranking on a location that you are
very familiar. You should know where the drop offs are and how the area is laid
out. You want to begin cranking your lure on top of the location. You also
always want to crank parallel to the break or drop off. Think about how your
lure is hitting the cover. You want to have the bait “scratching” off the
bottom or cover as much as possible. Paralleling the proper depth will achieve
this goal.
The drop or break also is the location that
most fish will be located. Bass love access to deep water. They also like to be
near a location that is unique, close to a flat, and that has cover. A drop off
is all of these. Ledges are just long drop offs. Deep crankbaits fished parallel
to these drops, ledges, and breaks, are a fantastic way to cover a large amount
of water. When you cover more water in the “right” places, you are likely to
find a group of fish. Many anglers refer to them as schools. Finding a school
of quality bass is how summer tournaments are often won on impoundments.
Locating these schools is difficult but
worth every bit of effort once found. I use my maps and depth finder to locate
drops. I cover water and search for the schools on those types of locations. Buoy
markers are my best friends when fishing like this. You can be a mile offshore
and mark a specific rock pile or ditch with pinpoint accuracy using a marker
buoy. My favorite method is to throw the buoy next to where my boat is located
and remember the exact direction I cast. That way you can hit an exact piece of
cover repeatedly without having to worry about getting your bait or the fish
caught in the buoy line. It also helps if you do not want the angler in the
back of your boat to be able to hit exactly the right spot.
The business is the crankbait. Many
tournaments have been won on many different deep crankbaits. I have used many
of them over the years such as the Poe’s 400, Rapala DT 16, Norman DD22,
Bagley’s DB3, and Bomber Fat Free Shad. I took my knowledge of deep cranking
and designed the SPRO Little John DD. It casts a mile, gets to 20 feet deep,
digs on the bottom, has a great action, and is not too hard to crank. I
encourage any angler to fish it next to any other deep crankbait. Fishing a deep
crankbait can definitely be easier if you choose the right lure.
Now we know what technique wins many summer
events. Take these basics of deep cranking to develop what works best for you.
Take your sunscreen, plug knocker, marker buoys, and go win a summertime bass
tournament!